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Category: Japan

The Ultimate First-Timer’s Guide to Tokyo (A 5-Day Itinerary)
Quick Summary: Neon skylines, peaceful shrines, matcha breaks, and a few perfectly marbled wagyu moments. This 5-day Tokyo plan balances icons (Shibuya, Skytree, Sensō-ji) with the little things that make the city unforgettable (alleyway yakitori, hidden cafés, and a detour for watch lovers).

Good to know: Tokyo is wonderfully walkable in segments, but you’ll rely on trains. Grab an IC card (Suica/PASMO), wear comfortable shoes, and book popular restaurants ahead where possible.

Day 1 — Shibuya, Imperial Palace, and First Bites

Morning: Shibuya Crossing & Hachiko

Is it the world’s busiest crossing? Maybe. Honest take: a bit underwhelming in person, and about half the people are tourists walking back and forth for photos. For a view from above, try the Starbucks on the north end (busy, yes). Don’t miss the Hachiko Statue, and wander the streets north of the crossing for shopping and snacks. We made an obligatory stop at Blue Bottle Shibuya – one of the nicest locations we’ve visited.

Midday: Imperial Palace area

Stroll the grounds and moat views around the Imperial Palace. The inner grounds are generally closed, but during special openings (and sometimes cherry blossom season) you can get inside. Even from the outside, it’s a calm counterpoint to Shibuya.

Evening: Ichiran (Shibuya/Shinjuku)

Iconic solo-booth ramen, fast and fun if jet lag hits. Can be found anywhere so its ideal to start with.

Day 2 — Meiji Jingu, Asakusa & Wagyu Night

Morning: Meiji Jingu

Set in a vast park, Meiji Jingu is one of the most serene places we visited—tall torii gates, dappled light, and a peaceful forest walk that feels miles from the city.

Midday: Sensō-ji & Kitchen Street

Head to Asakusa for Sensō-ji—lanterns, Nakamise shopping street, and classic snacks. Nearby Kitchen Street(Kappabashi-dori) is heaven for food lovers: knives, ceramics, and every tool you never knew you needed.

Evening: Matsuzakagyu Yoshida (Wagyu dinner)

If you love steak, this is the moment. Kobe is the headliner, but Matsusaka and Ōmi are just as good—sometimes better. We chose Matsuzakagyu Yoshida, a formal restaurant high up in a skyscraper with skyline views. You pick your style: teppanyaki, shabu-shabu, or sukiyaki. The meat was deeply flavorful and melt-on-your-tongue soft. If you can, experience all three styles somewhere during your trip.

Day 3 — Ueno to Skytree on Foot (Matcha & Views)

Morning: Ueno Park

Museums, markets, ponds – Ueno Park is ideal for a slow start (and cherry blossoms in season). If you want to get your steps in, use Ueno as the start of a one-hour walk toward Skytree, collecting little neighborhoods as you go.

Mid-route: Hatoya Asakusa (Matcha stop)

Hatoya Asakusa is a lovely pause for matcha desserts and tea. Expect a line at busy hours—worth the wait.

Afternoon: Tokyo Skytree

One of the tallest structures in the world and a masterclass in earthquake engineering. There are two observation levels—we recommend booking both: the top level is less crowded and the views are noticeably better. Clear days may reveal Mount Fuji. If you’re early for your slot, there’s a bagel place across the street that’s perfect for a quick bite.

Note: The elevator to the upper deck has glass features—heads-up if heights make you queasy.

Evening: Tsukiji Fish Market area

The original market moved, but Tsukiji still delivers big on fresh seafood. We stopped for a quick sushi bite—an easy, satisfying dinner option after a long walking day.

Day 4 — Ginza, Azabudai Hills & a Wagyu Burger

Morning: Ginza

High-end shopping boulevards and department stores that feel more US-urban than the rest of Tokyo. Polished, structured, and perfect for window-shopping (or the real thing).

Midday: Buvette

We first loved Buvette in New York and found the Tokyo outpost while walking from Ginza toward the Palace. It’s Western cuisine—not a place for Japanese flavors—but it’s a cozy, reliable stop for coffee and a bite. We still prefer the NY location, but this one is worth a visit if you’re nearby.

Afternoon: Azabudai Hills (+ Tokyo Tower nearby)

A newly developed district that blends upscale living, artful public spaces, and luxury retail. Tokyo Tower is just around the corner for that classic red-and-white skyline moment.

Evening: Shogun Burger

Wagyu… as a burger. We couldn’t resist. There’s a Shogun Burger right in Azabudai Hills and it was absolutely worth it. How often do you get a wagyu burger done this well? Go once – minimum.

Day 5 — Watches, Nakano Broadway & Night Alleys

Morning: Watches & Luxury (Ginza or Nakano Broadway)

If you’re a watch enthusiast, Tokyo is a playground. Nakano Broadway is packed with specialty stores and rare finds—just know that dealers usually price to global markets, so “steals” are rare even after the 10% tax-free calculation. I’ll publish a dedicated Tokyo Watch-Hunting Guide soon with shop recs and buying tips.

Afternoon: Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane)

Near Shinjuku Station, this narrow alley of tiny yakitori stands and bars is pure atmosphere—neon reflections, sizzling skewers, and the unmistakable hum of Tokyo nights. Stroll it even if you don’t stop to eat.

Optional: Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden

A beautiful garden with a greenhouse and excellent cherry blossom viewing in season. There’s an entrance fee, but it’s one of the city’s best green escapes.

Dinner: Your choice

Round out the trip with whatever you loved most—ramen, sushi, or another wagyu moment. Celebrate a city that somehow does both giant-scale and small-scale human warmth in the same breath.

Practical Tips for First-Timers
- Transport: IC cards (Suica/PASMO) work across trains, subways, and many buses. Top up at machines; keep one per person.
- Cash vs Cards: Cards are increasingly accepted, but cash is still handy for smaller eateries and shrines. 7-Eleven ATMs are everywhere.
- Reservations: Book wagyu and high-demand sushi ahead. Casual izakaya: walk-ins often fine.
- Cherry Blossom Season: Beautiful but busy. Hotels pricier, queues longer. If blossoms aren’t a priority, consider shoulder seasons.
- Pacing: Tokyo has multiple “centers.” Plan days by clusters (e.g., Shibuya/Harajuku; Asakusa/Skytree; Ginza/Palace; Shinjuku/Azabudai) to minimize transit time.
- Coffee Breaks: Blue Bottle and local kissaten both shine – build in 15-minute resets to keep energy up.
19/10/2025
An Omakase in Kanazawa: A Review of Sushi Rekireki Omicho
In our guide to Kanazawa, we called this the best sushi experience of our trip, and it’s a statement we stand by. This is a closer look at our unforgettable meal at Sushi Rekireki Omicho, a small restaurant that, for us, represents the art of sushi at its finest.

Located near the city’s famous Omicho Market, this is a destination for a true omakase experience. With its Michelin Plate recognition and a deep connection to local tradition—being operated by the historic Yamato Soysauce and Miso Company—it promises a meal rooted in Kanazawa’s rich culinary heritage

The Setting & Atmosphere

The restaurant is minimalist and intimate, with seating for only a handful of guests along a beautiful hinoki wood counter. We loved the calm and focused atmosphere, which allows you to fully appreciate the chef’s craft. However, it’s worth noting that the interior is very simple and the seating is traditional. While authentic, some may find it less comfortable for a long meal. At this price point, the ambiance could be a bit more refined. For us, the focus was rightly on the counter and the chef’s incredible work.

The Omakase Experience

The omakase was a guided journey through the best seasonal seafood from the Hokuriku region. It began by watching the itamae (sushi chef) meticulously prepare the stunning array of fresh, local fish, sourced just steps away at Omicho Market.

The multi-course meal was a sequence of highlights, and while every piece was remarkable, here are a few that we still talk about. What truly impressed us was the perfect balance in each piece of nigiri. The quality of the fish was exceptional and perfectly complemented by the seasoned shari (sushi rice). A clear standout was the local specialty, the nodoguro(blackthroat seaperch), which the chef lightly seared (aburi) to an incredible, buttery texture. Another highlight was the rich, creamy uni (sea urchin) from Hokkaido.

Practical Tips for Visiting
- Reservations are Essential: You must book well in advance. We recommend booking through your hotel’s concierge or a Japanese booking service like TableCheck, as walk-ins are generally not possible.
- Trust the Chef: The nature of omakase is to enjoy the chef’s curated journey. Eat each piece as it is presented—it is already perfectly seasoned for you.
- Combine with Omicho Market: The restaurant is located right by the market. Plan to explore the market’s vibrant stalls before or after your meal.
The Verdict

So, was it truly the highlight of our trip? For us, the answer is a resounding yes. The combination of the high-quality local fish, the chef’s clear expertise, and the quiet, focused setting made for a truly special dining experience. While the simple interior might not fully match the high price point for some, the quality of the food itself was absolutely flawless.

For anyone who appreciates the craft of high-end sushi, a meal here is an experience we can’t recommend highly enough and a highlight of our Kanazawa Guide.

Overall ★★★★½☆ (4.5/5)
07/08/2025
A Guide to Kyoto’s Best Breakfasts & Coffee Shops

Mornings in Kyoto have a special kind of magic. Whether you’re watching the early light hit a temple roof or wandering through quiet, misty alleys, starting your day on the right note is essential. While Japan isn’t traditionally known for a big “breakfast out” culture, Kyoto’s international appeal and incredible craftsmanship have created a fantastic scene for morning meals and world-class coffee.

This is our curated guide to the best spots to start your day in Kyoto, from full traditional meals to the perfect cup of coffee.

Before diving into our favorite spots, it’s helpful to understand that the concept of “going out for breakfast” isn’t as ingrained in Japanese culture as it is in the West. Traditionally, breakfast (chōshoku) is a meal enjoyed at home and is a savory affair. The classic components are steamed rice, miso soup, grilled fish (yakizakana), and various small side dishes like pickled vegetables (tsukemono) or a rolled omelet (tamagoyaki).

However, as a historic capital and a global travel destination, Kyoto offers the best of both worlds. You can find specialty restaurants that serve an incredible traditional Japanese breakfast, giving you a true taste of the culture. At the same time, the city has a world-class modern cafe and bakery scene, driven by a love for craftsmanship and quality. This guide covers our favorites from every category, from a full meal to what we consider the soul of any morning ritual: a perfect cup of coffee.

For a Full Breakfast Experience

These are the places to go when you want a substantial, sit-down meal to fuel a day of exploring.

Lorimer (For the Traditionalist)

Style: Traditional Japanese Breakfast | Vibe: Calm & Minimalist

For a truly authentic Kyoto experience, look no further than Lorimer. This beautiful, minimalist spot specializes in one thing: the classic Japanese breakfast (ichiju sansai). You can expect a perfectly grilled piece of fish, a bowl of rice and miso soup, and several small, delicate side dishes like pickles and vegetables. We chose the smaller version, and it was the perfect, nourishing way to start the day.

Kissa Kishin (For a Western Craving)

Style: Western-Style Breakfast | Vibe: Cozy & Popular

If you’re craving a taste of home, Kissa Kishin is the spot. It’s a favorite among international travelers for good reason, serving up beautifully executed Western-style dishes. The French toast and brioche are phenomenal, and the coffee is excellent. It’s located a little outside the main city center, so a bus or taxi is your best bet, but it’s well worth the trip.

Totaro (For a Sweet Start)

Style: Japanese Sweets (Wagashi) | Vibe: Quaint & Quick

For a different kind of breakfast, head to Totaro. This charming little spot is known for its Japanese-style sweet breakfast and matcha. Think delicate rice dumplings (dango) and other traditional sweets (wagashi). It opens at 10 AM, and there’s usually a small queue. Note that there’s no seating, only standing tables, but it’s a unique and delightful experience worth the short wait.

For the Perfect Cup of Coffee

Kyoto’s third-wave coffee scene is world-class. If you’re a coffee aficionado, these are the places you can’t miss.

% Arabica Kyoto (The Icon)

Vibe: Minimalist & Iconic | Must-Try: Caffe Latte

With its iconic “%” logo, Arabica is perhaps Kyoto’s most famous coffee shop. They have several stunning, minimalist locations, most notably in Arashiyama by the river and in Higashiyama near the Yasaka Pagoda. The coffee is consistently excellent, smooth, and perfectly balanced. Be prepared for a queue—it’s a global phenomenon for a reason.

Weekenders Coffee (The Hidden Gem)

Vibe: Secluded & Purist | Must-Try: Filter Coffee

This is a true insider’s spot for serious coffee lovers. Famously tucked away in a tiny, unassuming space at the back of a parking lot, Weekenders Coffee is a roastery that serves up some of the best filter coffee in the city from a small window. It’s a no-frills experience that is all about the quality of the bean.

Blue Bottle Coffee (The Californian-Kyoto Blend)

Vibe: Serene & Architectural | Must-Try: Drip Coffee

The famous Californian coffee brand found the perfect home in Kyoto. Their location near the Nanzen-ji temple is set in a beautifully renovated two-story machiya (traditional wooden townhouse) with a serene courtyard. It’s a stunning fusion of modern, clean coffee culture and timeless Japanese aesthetics.

Here Kyoto (For Coffee & a Treat)

Vibe: Modern & Friendly | Must-Try: Cannelé Latte

A fantastic coffee shop that has earned a loyal following for its quality brews and, more specifically, its signature cannelés. They often serve their lattes with a delicious, freshly baked cannelé on top. It’s a perfect pairing and a delightful treat after exploring the nearby Nishiki Market.

No matter how you choose to start your day, these spots are sure to provide a memorable experience. All of these recommendations and more are included in our complete 5 Days in Kyoto Itinerary.

02/08/2025
What to Do in Kanazawa: A 2-Day Itinerary for Food & History
When planning our Japan itinerary, Kanazawa wasn’t initially on the top of our list. But as we mapped out our route from Kyoto to Tokyo, this lesser-known gem in Ishikawa Prefecture stood out as the perfect stopover. And it turned out to be exactly that—a charming town rich in history and beauty, ideal for a short 2-3 day visit.

Often called “Little Kyoto,” Kanazawa offers a condensed, genuine glimpse into historic Japan without the overwhelming crowds. The city is famous for its gold leaf production (kinpaku), and you’ll see its shimmering touch everywhere—a constant reminder of the city’s deep-rooted artisanal heritage. If you’re wondering is Kanazawa worth visiting, the answer is a resounding yes.

For our stay, we booked The Sanraku Hotel Kanazawa. It was a lovely 5-star hotel—impeccably clean with fantastic staff. However, we were missing a few amenities that we would usually expect in this category.

Getting to Kanazawa

Getting to Kanazawa is straightforward, especially if you have a Japan Rail Pass. The city is a major stop on the Hokuriku Shinkansen line, making it easily accessible.
- From Tokyo: The direct Shinkansen ride takes about 2.5 to 3 hours.
- From Kyoto/Osaka: You’ll need to take a combination of the Thunderbird limited express train and Shinkansen, which takes just over 2 hours.
Must-See Sights in Kanazawa: A Walking Itinerary

Kanazawa is incredibly walkable. Here are the sights you shouldn’t miss.

Kanazawa Castle & Kenroku-en Garden

Start your exploration at Kanazawa Castle, the historic seat of the powerful Maeda Clan. While a reconstruction, its impressive gates and turrets give you a real sense of feudal Japan.

Right next door is Kenroku-en, rightfully known as one of Japan’s three most beautiful landscape gardens. Every path leads to a picture-perfect view of its ancient ponds, stone lanterns, and charming teahouses. Plan for at least a couple of hours to soak it all in.

Omicho Market: The City’s Kitchen

A short walk from the castle is Omicho Market, while not as large as markets in bigger cities (like the famous Nishiki Market in Kyoto), its authentic vibe is its main draw. It’s the best place in Kanazawa to try fresh seafood, regional produce, and street food snacks.

Explore the Historic Geisha and Samurai Districts

No trip to Kanazawa is complete without walking through its preserved historical districts.
- Higashi Chaya District: This is the city’s main geisha district, with beautiful latticed wooden teahouses that now serve as cafes and artisan shops.
- Nagamachi Samurai District: Wander past the mud-walled residences where samurai once lived. You can even enter the Nomura-ke, a restored samurai house, to see how they lived.
Best Restaurants in Kanazawa: From Hidden Ramen to DIY Sushi

The food scene in Kanazawa was a major highlight of our trip. Here are our top recommendations.

Dinner & Unique Food Experiences
- Aburaya: This was a top find for authentic, cheap eats. A tiny ramen spot in the basement of an office building, you order from a cash-only machine in the back. It’s a no-frills, delicious, and genuine local experience.
- Sushi Rekireki Omicho: Hands down, the best sushi experience we had in Japan. You must book in advance. We chose the omakase menu, where the chef presents a flawless course-by-course journey of the freshest fish. It’s a culinary event you won’t forget.
- Kanazawa Temakizushi Coil: This concept is brilliant and so much fun. You build your own sushi from a huge list of high-quality ingredients. It’s interactive, creative, and a perfect activity for a date night. We loved it.
Breakfast & Coffee Shops
- townsfolk coffee: The perfect place to start your day. We had a wonderful breakfast here before exploring the nearby samurai district.
- PETRA BAKE & COFFEE: Located right at the corner of Omicho Market, it’s an ideal spot to grab a quality coffee and pastry before diving into the market’s buzz.
- SWAY COFFEE ROASTER: For coffee aficionados, this modern cafe serves up an excellent brew in a sleek, contemporary setting.
Final Thoughts: Is Kanazawa Worth Visiting?

Absolutely. Kanazawa was an unexpected highlight of our Japan travels. It packs an incredible amount of culture, history, and outstanding food into a compact, accessible city. While sights like Kiyomizu-dera in Kyoto are stunning, the relaxed and authentic atmosphere of Kanazawa offered a welcome change of pace. It’s the perfect addition to any itinerary, beautifully bridging the journey between Tokyo and Kyoto.
10/07/2025
5 days in Kyoto

We recently completed our first Japan trip and I want to take you along with us to show you the highlights of each of our stops.

Arrival: From Nagoya to Kyoto via Shinkansen

We landed late at night in Nagoya and hopped on the legendary Shinkansen straight to Kyoto Station. Our first experience with Japan’s rail system – clean, fast, and punctual. In under two hours, we were in the cultural heart of Japan.

Our hotel, the Holiday Inn Kyoto, was conveniently located within walking distance of the city center and just a few minutes from the subway.

Getting Around Kyoto: What You Need to Know

Let’s start with the practical part: how to get around Kyoto. The city has a massive central hub – Kyoto Station – and just two main subway lines. Most of your travel will likely involve buses, which operate on a zone-based system. Subways are distance-based.

Tip: Grab a prepaid IC card (like Suica or ICOCA). It works across most trains, subways, and buses throughout Japan – even in Tokyo or Osaka.

IC cards are rechargeable cards that can be used to conveniently pay fares on public transport – they can also be used on vending machines, shops and restaurants. You can get physical cards at the airport or simply download the app. As foreigner you can’t reimburse money in the app so make sure to spend it at the airport.

If you’re staying near the city center, consider walking. Kyoto is surprisingly walkable, and exploring the side streets gives you a glimpse into everyday life far from the tourist hotspots.

Breakfast Spots

Totaro – A charming little café known for its Japanese-style sweet breakfast and matcha. Think delicate rice dumplings (dango) and cozy vibes. It opens at 10 AM, and even then, there’s usually a small queue. There’s no seating – just standing tables – but it’s worth the wait.

Kissa Kishin – If you’re craving a more Western-style breakfast, this one hits the spot. It’s a favorite among international travelers and serves French toast, brioche, and good coffee. It’s located a bit outside the city center, so a bus or Uber is your best bet.

Lorimer – A spot for the traditionalists. Here you can experience a classic Japanese breakfast with various sizes and dishes like grilled fish and pickled sides. We chose the smaller version, and it was just right to start the day.

Totaro

Kissa Kishin

Lorimer

Lunch & Dinner: Ramen Dreams Come True

Men-ya Inoichi – This is where Instagram and real life collide. The ramen here is truly exceptional, but be warned: it’s popular. You take a number, go away for a couple of hours, then return and wait again. All for 20 minutes of ramen bliss. If you’re visiting during cherry blossom season, be prepared to wait – but it’s worth it. Plan ahead and explore the city while you wait.

Comorebi – Our second ramen stop, and honestly our favorite. A cozy little place with excellent ramen, great local beer, and warm hospitality. We didn’t have to wait when we arrived, but by the time we left, a line had already formed. Still, we never felt rushed. A true hidden gem.

Mama Pizza – If you’re craving pizza in Kyoto, Mama Pizza is the spot to go. Located a bit outside the city center and near the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, it’s the perfect place to refuel after a stroll through one of Kyoto’s most scenic areas. The surrounding neighborhood is peaceful and picturesque, making it well worth the detour.

Men-ya Inoichi

Comorebi

Mama

Sights You Shouldn’t Miss

Nijō Castle – A beautiful historical site that’s less crowded than Kyoto’s other landmarks but just as impressive. It has a wonderful maintained garden and is beautiful to walk around, just the inner building can be full especially with bigger tourist groups blocking the small hallways.

Nishiki Market – A must-visit for any foodie. This crowded street market is filled with street food, fresh seafood, and local specialties. It’s a great place to snack and explore at the same time.

Kiyomizu-dera – Probably the most touristy place we visited, but undeniably beautiful. The streets leading up to the temple are packed, so try visiting during a weekday or early morning for a calmer experience. Once you’re there, the view is worth it.

Nijō

Nishiki Market

Kiyomizu-dera

Cherry Blossoms as we travelled during cherry blossom season here are some additional tips if you want to find the best places to take some pictures. There is a website tracking the level of bloom during bloom season with daily updates. If they are at full bloom be quick, they only last about two weeks. If you are not keen on seeing these beautiful trees I would advise to travel sometime else, hotels will be cheaper and it will be less crowded.

08/07/2025